A grilled cheese seems like a simple matter, but it is
possible, even easy, to screw up. My mother managed to ruin many a grilled
cheese, either through neglect (too burned, er, toasted, for my tender palate)
or too fancified, with plastic sliced tomatoes.
Meltkraft masters the genre. This artisanal grilled cheese restaurant, which opened right
around the corner from me in Park Slope, Brooklyn, is a sibling of the Valley
Shepherd Creamery, a gourmet food shop a few blocks away.
There is also an outlet in Philadelphia.
Valley Shepherd Creamery, a sheep farm in New Jersey, makes
outstanding cheese, which is one key to amazing grilled cheese. Another is the bread.
The outstanding bread is good enough on its own, and simply ethereal when
smothered in melted cheese.
For the purist, the Shepherd classic is the way to go. There
is just the right amount of crust and crunch, and oozing full fat cheese. You can customize your sammy with
truffle oil, bacon, duck fat or bacon fat for the non-vegetarians, or, if you must, tomato.
There is also a ‘melter skelter’ with pickled green
tomatoes, jalapenos, BBQ potato chips and watercress, a messy nirvana that will
leave you craving more.
For those who like their cheese cold, the Goat & Beets
is a fantastic combo of goat cheese, fennel beets, arugula, honey and walnuts.
The café has a great selection of craft beers on tap, and
you can take home a growler. For more kid-friendly fare, organic chocolate milk
in a mason jar is the way to go.
But ymmy as the food is (there are also cookies, pastries
and soups) the service is sorely lacking. We went on a Saturday just after the
place opened, and our sandwiches took 45 minutes to get melted under the
industrial toaster. But we gave the place another shot.
This time, one register wasn’t working and no one who placed
orders there got their food started. Guess which line we were on? Then we were
told that the salad or chip option that comes with the sandwich had turned into
a $1 surcharge for the salad. We ordered salads, paid for the upcharge, got
chips.